STOCKHOLM FASHION WEEK SPRING 2011
Mary Scale
5- Wow, really took my breath away
4- I really loved it
3-I liked it, I just didn’t love it
2-Just clothes
1- No, just no
Camilla Norrback – The collection was quite feminine but with an edge as the dark contrasts created a woman who loves the female sensibility, yet isn’t afraid to look imperfect. The collection began with a very structured black trench, but was thrown over a cuffed patterned minidress and translucent hosiery, transforming a “borrowed from the boys” jacket into a woman’s daily wear. At first, the looks involving navy blues, or blacks involved more structure, but were still adorned with light touches such as bows, ruffles, or eyelet details. Red was the power color of the collection as it resurfaced on muted platforms, shoulder bags, and even under a black eyelet midriff tank, giving the collection its raw edge to balance the feminity. As the colors in the collection lightened, so did the fabrics, as a white flowing minidress and a basic button down shirt with multi-collars was introduced. Also more prints and textures began to show from kneelength knit sweaters to complete looks in eyelet. The collection took the otherwise sunny girly fabric, and made it for nighttime in the form of a black mini to evening dress and even a transparent top- showing eyelet can be wearable for a premiere or a party. Despite the use of bold color and clever transformation of fabric, some of the looser looks didn’t stand out as strong as the others. The navy blue jumper with the black multi-collars modernized the sweet schoolgirl look-creating that feminine edge promoted throughout the collection. Camilla Norrback presented a collection that updated the sweet girl to the 21st century, showing that easiness can definitely have an edge.

Mary Scale 3.0

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK 2010

Mary Scale
5- Wow, really took my breath away
4- I really loved it
3-I liked it, I just didn’t love it
2-Just clothes
1- No, just no

BRUNS BAZAAR- The collection began with a focus on minimalism- with several little black dresses accentuated with simple gathering. The dresses- which are usually associated with nighttime – were paired with a flat sandal-showing the easy transition from day to night. The collection took a right turn into daytime with short suits, splatter prints, and bright stripes. The “Summer Jacket” was perfect for the season because it was bright enough to incorporate into warm weather wear, while still structured enough to serve its purpose. Stripes was a reoccurring theme in the collection, but washed out and paired with a soft floral print – making the two unlikely prints work cohesively as one print didn’t outshine the other. The menswear of the collection was very basic, but not dull as the fabric shined giving it that summer sparkle. Although the collection was very tasteful prior the menswear, afterward the looks weren’t as likable. The different layering combinations of stripes with militaristic bubble tops over splatter print asymmetrical skirts weren’t cohesive with the rest of the collection and unflattering. As the collection focused on lighter hues, the looks began to improve with tan lace accenting a cream shift dress, and also a sharp silver minidress. The brief introduction of jade brightened the collection into summertime and showed how easily the color can go from business to beach. The women’s wear ended as it had begun- with gathering but instead focused on tops and more work attire. The final menswear gave the collection a serious tone with navy blue and black professional looks, but lightened up with tailored shorts. Overall, the collection incorporated several key business looks into the season, but after seeing the tailored shorts, it reminds us that there is no such thing as a “serious summer” after all.

Mary Scale 2.5

AUSTRALIA FASHION WEEK -BRISBANE

Mary Scale
5- Wow, really took my breath away
4- I really loved it
3-I liked it, I just didn’t love it
2-Just clothes
1- No, just no

PAUL HUNT- The collection played up classics by contrasting embroidery and current touches to make a simple dress stand out. In the beginning , the looks had a soft feminine feel, while the complementary embroidery and soft pink cap sleeves kept the dresses from looking too basic. Hunt modified basic dresses with modern accents such as bright flowers disguised as pockets. The vibrant print jacket over the cream shift dress shows how a basic dress can transform into a standout statement simply by throwing on a bold jacket. The overall collection focused on classic shapes, but the cohesion of the collection took a turn with the over-embellished, puff-sleeved Asian flower print dress. Hunt took the common cocktail wear and made it appropriate for evening as a jewel-toned evening mini-dress and sleeveless romper. The black satin dress highlighted with midnight blue flowers beautifully transitioned the collection from day to night. Nearing the finale, the faded flower ball gowns emphasized the feminity, although the structured jacket took away from the beauty of the whole look. The Paul Hunt collection ended on a high note as the finale ballgown was the perfect combination of bold colors and luxury- creating modern classics that will never go out of style.

Paul Hunt- 3.5

Couture Fall 2010

Christian Dior – Galliano's combinations of differing textures , color explosions, and gift-wrapped head pieces transforms any woman from wallflower to a attention-grabbing centerpiece. The deep plum of the first look with a high-blooming fur collar resembles the volume of a flower but doesn’t exemplify all of the color of the other looks. The fire-red shoulder details on the second look, highlighted with a matching headpiece, was balanced with an icy blue full skirt, giving balance and combining ferocity and subtlety. The bright orange lace-detailed jacket with a floral printed plum skirt complemented each other wildly. Similar to how different flower species are combined in a garden. The purple boat-neck dress was a classic shape that moved easily as a flower does in the wind. Some looks show flowers mid-bloom with the floral details peeking out from the folds, or muted fabric dipped in an electric color. Each look was accented with a waist-cinching bow, resembling the different and unique curves of a flower. The finale looks were breathtaking as the high-volume tulle, silk, and floral prints combined into an expressive and very impressive display of flowers in full bloom. Overall, every look was distinctly unique, just like a flower, and as Galliano expressed in his collection, every woman should be also.

Mary Scale 4.5

Bouchra Jarrar- Streamlined simplicity was the topic of the Bouchra Jarrar Couture collection. The collection was overall quite wearable but had certain touches that made it unique and couture. The deep v-necks of the first two looks were lined with contrasting black and white giving the minimal looks body-shaping details. Certain looks had touches of striking gold ribbon or jewelry. The looks involving cutouts were done in such a way that they weren’t suggestive, but instead focused on lengthening the body. The fur infused luxury into the collection without interruption as the white fur also had touches of cream and black on the edges. In this collection, the back was almost as important as the front with bold lines and cutouts also on the back. The high-necked finale dress was beautiful simplicity as it highlighted the neck and waist with banded lines and also flowed at the back.

Mary Scale 3.5

Menswear 2011 Spring- Vikor and Rolf

Mary Scale
5- Wow, really took my breath away
4- I really loved it
3-I liked it, I just didn’t love it
2-Just clothes
1- No, just no

Viktor and Rolf – The collection brought a cool easiness to clothing that’s usually associated with strict attitudes. The tuxedo jacket of the first look transformed formality to fun by being in tan and also a looser fabric. The sudden introduction of plaid prints gave patterns to the customer who desires a little more eye-catching combinations. The suits became summer appropriate once paired with a muted sandal and also showed the unexpected versatility of a “summer suit.” The collection began with minimal amounts of color, but the sudden interjections of bright orange and turquoise turned several somber looks into noticeable pieces. The looks that had only one color used varying fabrics and textures (i.e. patent leather, cotton, jeweled detailing) for that special touch. The collection’s finale was the perfect ending with the tuxedo jacket and tailored shorts by showing that formality doesn’t mean compromising on comfort.

Mary Scale 4.0

Pakistan Fashion Week 2010

Mary Scale
5- Wow, really took my breath away
4- I really loved it
3-I liked it, I just didn’t love it
2-Just clothes
1- No, just no

Nomi Ansari – Nomi Ansari introduces color from head to heel from the start with wigs, and clothing in a kaledioscope of colors. His first look took the simple mini dress to the max with various sequins that combined wearability and whimsy. He had the proper balance of various colors in his looks, creating a flow between the differing colors. The small hats and clothing proportions were reminiscent of the whimsy in Alice in Wonderland. He has taken the simple party dress, and adorned it with multicolored textures, colors, and patterns, creating a woman that isn’t afraid to stand out. Although several pieces succeeded, some involving the flower patterns didn’t have the same height of excellence. The pieces involving frayed dresses and tops were a hit and also with the dresses bordered with exotic animals gave an unexpected touch to the garments. The most outstanding piece was the ruby rosette dress that created a sense of surrealism, wearability, and ultimately related to the total collection. Noomi Ansari created a collection that was risk taking with some reality, but seemed to derive from a dreamer’s world.

Mary Scale 3.5

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Ready to Wear

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Ready to Wear

Fall 2010 Ready to Wear- The silhouettes this season flow more away from the body and allow for more layering and combinations rather than focus on body-hugging looks. Few collections have a range of color, and more of focus on the shine of the fabric to attract attention. Looks have more wear ability and versatility, giving women more sustainable pieces for their closet, but with no compromise to individuality.

Mary Scale
5- Wow, really took my breath away
4- I really loved it
3-I liked it, I just didn’t love it
2-Just clothes
1- No, just no

D&G- D&G pushed for fashion full throttle with skin tight knits and full furs that made no apologies. The first look with bodyshaping knits and striking fur boots summed up the whole collection: a woman who isn’t afraid to show a little skin and is willing to make a statement- even if that means compromising on functionality. The collection took the traditional knit pattern associated with winter, and transformed it into rebellious snow-wear in the form of knee high boots, minidresses, and unitards. D&G recreated festive clothing into a style that wouldn’t be limited to the holiday seasons. The brief incorporation of blazers with the knits took the woman from vacation to vocation, cleverly showing the adaptability of knits. The collection used a wide variety of fabrics and the inclusion of flowing material released the strict attitude that would be present if it wasn’t for the ease of the material. Although the collection successfully combined different textures in almost every look, the ending heavy white dresses weren’t cohesive with the other statement looks. D&G created excitement towards winter 2011 and proved that there can be plenty of fire in a season of ice.

Mary Scale 4.5

Fashion Week Fall 2010 Ready to Wear

Fall 2010 Ready to Wear- The silhouettes this season flow more away from the body and allow for more layering and combinations rather than focus on body-hugging looks. Few collections have a range of color, and more of focus on the shine of the fabric to attract attention. Looks have more wear ability and versatility, giving women more sustainable pieces for their closet, but with no compromise to individuality.

Mary Scale
5- Wow, really took my breath away
4- I really loved it
3-I liked it, I just didn’t love it
2-Just clothes
1- No, just no

PORTS 1961- Ports 1961 combines sustainable textiles with silky fabrics forming an unthinkable way to complement materials. The collection began with a focus on lasting outerwear, beginning with an egg shell white rubber coat completed with rubber tan hat and boots that remained throughout the collection. The use of rubber creates the idea of a woman lasting all types of weather, while not compromising style. The hats resemble Roman helmets- as women protect themselves not only against the rain or snow, but whatever they may encounter through the day. The collection changed from a blinding white piece to many gray pieces, and no use of color, but a focus on the quality of the fabrics that shined with the movement of the models. From outerwear to innerwear, the collection changed the accessories from rubber to leather with cocktail dresses adorned with gold geometric jewelry transforming a simple dress into an individual piece. The collection had sellable pieces that women could incorporate into their closet, but lost focus with the finale piece, with the mixture of rough outerwear and silky innerwear, creating a look that didn’t have the correct combination. The collection supported being functional and fierce in harsh weather, but was also trying to find the equal medium between outerwear and innerwear.
Mary Scale 3.5

Cynthia Steffe- The collection promotes back to school (girl) chic, but goes beyond the bubblegum sweetness with short leather shift dresses and transforms from youth to a more womanly appeal. The beginning of the collection focused on short skirts, wool knee highs, and colorful berets- clothes that are common to a young woman, but showed the transition into womanhood with less flirty shapes and more structured wool pants and coats, creating a more business look. The incorporation of florals was unexpected but didn’t interrupt the flow of the collection. The leather crop jackets and skirt jumpers with geometric black and white lines created a futuristic schoolgirl, but slightly went off track with a large black sweater, throwing off the clean look. The final pieces seemed promote the idea of throwing a simple outerwear coat over a delicate cocktail dress. The collection gave an edge to the cool in school, while providing sweet dresses to party (even on a school night).
Mary Scale 4.0

BCBG Max Azria- The collection created the simplicity of creating a look with simple key pieces: a large scarf, belt, great trousers, and an extreme heel. The collection played on variations of the pieces, while incorporating darker, bolder lined details on the garments. Asymmetry with pops of blues and canary yellows was also found throughout the show, creating contrast to the grays and deep blues. The show was likable with the flow of the fabric, but some of the asymmetry and incorporation of random fabrics, such as tulle on it edge of certain pieces, interrupted the easiness and created an undesirable roughness. Overall , the show emphasised simple layering for fall , creating many possibilities to combine the pieces in the collection.
Mary Scale 3.5


Doo.Ri- The collection started out very strong with menswear pieces circa 1940’s while playing with draping- creating looks that had softness with an edge. The draping remained throughout the collection, with bright orange jumping into the show with multi jeweled embellishments. The soft draping on the orange cocktail dress lost focus to the rough jewels on the edges of the dress, but looked much better on the skirt of the following piece. The navy jacket brushed with neon blue was a hit as it can be easily transitioned from day to night, along with the crop jacket version. The collection began strong, but started to fizzle out with looser, simpler looks, but the finale piece had the correct combination of a strength and simplicity.
Mary Scale 4.0

Lacoste- Lacoste supplied the color and excitement that many shows lacked, giving life to a season that’s usually filled with muted colors. Beginning with several looks that stayed with whites and grays the collection with variations of layered jumbo scarves, combined with cotton stockings, heels, and short skirts. The collection was starting to lose interest until the introduction of mustard yellow, deep greens, and red; colors similar to the leaves of the fall season. Bright stockings and leggings pulled over heels isn’t new, but felt new combined with the joy of the collection and the coolness the clothing exuded. The collection stayed away from patterns but stayed with color blocks, keeping the clothing from looking too busy. The bright gloves extending up the arm with the tilted hats gave youth and sophistication to each look. Lacoste gave the fall season more color and life than other shows, creating optimism for the upcoming season.
Mary Scale- 4.5