Spring 2010- Spring is the time for renewal or rebirth; therefore many designers have referred to white as their main color palette for spring. I guess color is out… Some collections don’t have shows and have resulted to mainly pictures, giving the advantage of having their clothing in the ideal scenery, but missing the motion of the clothing that runways give.
Mary Scale
5 - Wow, took my breath away
4 - I really loved it
3 - I liked it, but just didn’t love it
2 - Just clothes
1 - No, just no
Charlotte Ronson- the use of acid wash contrasting to the light pastel colors was an interesting take to make hardcore jeans and plaid ready for spring. The collection jumped from the ideas of a rebellious girl due to the use of the sheer with the dark acid wash and leather. Then to the ideas of an ethereal young woman with the all white sheer hood; next to the boardroom with the business jumpsuits and blazers (with shorts) and finally to an 80’s take on military. There was a sense of repetition from previous seasons with the use of high-waisted pants, platforms, lace, and a focus on the waist. Although the collection wasn’t completely cohesive, it was saved by the inclusion of a print material.
Mary Scale- 3.0
L.A.M.B. - Gwen Stefani’s style is completely admirable, but the collection didn’t reflect the designer’s personal style. Once again, the use of acid wash, lace, and platforms was found, but in a more interesting way. The use of print was great and the jackets were in sturdy shapes. Some of the outfits were in unflattering shapes, with the use of a bubble skirt with a slouchy shirt. The use of a zipper gave an attractive quirk to some of the pieces. The pop of color gave the collection a surprise with every outfit, but left out the ways to flatter the figure.
Mary Scale- 3.0
Cynthia Rowley- The collection gave the idea of 1940’s reconstruction with the use of tattered edges on classic shapes; but gave decadence with the inclusion of attractive multicolored jewels. The collection had a shifting color palette from white to a washed flower print to navy. The reconstructed dresses created a new way of playing on simple colors. The 1940’s seemed to be the reference for the collection but jumped to 2040 with for a moment. The inclusion of shimmer material was entertaining to the eye- creating something interesting for a would be-boring outfit. The collection had a sweet take on spring with almost each piece ready to “spring” into the new season.
Mary Scale-4.0
Elie Tahari- The collection breathes a youthful, carefree attitude that is likable. The hats could protect anyone in the spring rain season and still look chic. The bright orange stood out against the mute tan, silver, and white. The common use of platform shoes was once again found with harem pants. The use of the two didn’t seem completely dramatic but was easygoing. A woman that could pair any piece and still look prepared for the day. The white eyelet material is a common spring material, but the use of it against bright colors was likable.
Mary Scale-4.0
Jason Wu- The collection produced favorable party dresses along with interesting tweed-like prints. The use of dark colors against bold created a central focus on the waist. The mix of colors was mainly on point but sometimes went off focus. The use of different prints would make the wearer the life of any party, but the relation to the collection as a whole was sometimes lost.
Mary Scale 3.5
BCBG Max Azria- The collection started out with the typical use of white, but then turned very interesting with the introduction of lines on several pieces. The lines mixed with complicated prints, but the focus was on the line of the body. Some pieces flowed creating another spring theme of carelessness. Some pieces had zigzag illusions which was a different construction for a complicated print, but the inclusion of black on several pieces was a hit- and-miss. The overall image of the collection inferred that spring was a time for standing out in many colors.
Mary Scale 3.5
Monique Lhuiller- Each piece stood out on its own and didn’t need plenty of accessories to complement it. The collection didn’t seem to have a flow or central message due because the pieces didn’t seem to connect. The use of draping and fringe in bold warm tones was very likable. The animal print coat and dress was common and not shocking but attractive. The collection was very unique and each piece would make the wearer stand out.
Mary Scale 4.5
Ralph Lauren- The collection breathed a time similar to now where tattered denim and cotton dresses was the style and straight luxury wasn’t the trend. Although the collection had several distressed elements, it was accented by the inclusion of silver jeweled shoes and accessories. Further into the collection, the navy blue suits created a more serious mood unlike the youthfulness in the beginning, but created a more sophisticated woman. Transitioning from serious suits to spring dresses, the inclusion of white had a lightness and airy feeling that is often the mood for spring. The collection then went into blue satin material, turning the collection into a more feminine interpretation for spring. The collection lost its touch for a moment with the use of the ever popular scarves but was on point again with the use of silver and blue dresses along with emblazoned denim. My personal favorite was the jewel encrusted distressed jean that didn’t simply take on the role of bedazzled denim of the past, but recreated the standout style. The collection returned women to a time where power, femininity, and standout style was of the most importance.
Isaac Mizrahi- Mizrahi’s spring woman is a traveler who doesn’t require heavy baggage for her excursions. The hats created a quirkyness to the classic clothes. His use of tan saddleback heels was very likable. The collection took a right turn with the sudden use of metallic shine, bright spring colors such as purple, multiprints , and also ruffles. His use of a clear arm band changed the interpretation of the collection from the past, to well into the future. His theme then changed to stars and sparkle which was used as a basis of black and white on many pieces. Mizrahi overused the ruffles a bit in the collection but had a perfect balance of elegance and ruffles on the floor-length black gown. An ingenious piece was the black jumper with the clear arm band sending the viewer into the interpretation of a modern woman. The interesting pieces such as the hat, the saddleback heels, clear arm band, and the clear lobster (resting atop a dress) created fun youthful looks for spring. Mizrahi’s collection motivates women to go exploring in whatever fun pieces they have and not be afraid of what challenges lie in front of them.
Mary Scale -3.5
Michael Kors- The collection had a futuristic and more serious mood rather than of luxury of the past. His steel-toed heels made a woman that is a force to be reckoned with. Some of the pieces in the collection resembled a daytime spring shower with the use of blue and white.
Mary Scale- 3.5
Osman- A collection that seemed what a futuristic designer would find as elegance. He played with wide proportions and simplicity in the collection. His main colors of white and gold were played around with as squares on the fabric and on the ankle of the shoes. Osman’s collection supported the idea that if the world was left with only gold and white, they could make it work.
Mary Scale- 4.0
RALPH LAUREN SPRING 2010 READY-TO-WEAR
